Mediterranean Cruise 2005

The Vatican

We all get up after a MUCH needed night’s sleep and head out early to be among the first in line to enter St. Peter’s Basilica, the massive church in the heart of Vatican City.  There has been a church on this site since the time of Constantine, with the current structure completed in 1626.  Security is super efficient, and we make our way into the massive interior of the Basilica.

 As soon as we enter the doors and get over the scale of where we are, our eyes adjust and my attention is almost immediately drawn to the right.  La Pieta, Michelangelo’s masterpiece of Mary holding Jesus’s body after the Crucifixion, is perfectly lit and the marble emits an almost holy glow.  It is such a beautiful and powerful experience to be here.

“Crepuscular rays” of sunlight stream through the windows high up near the ceiling, giving a very heavenly feel to the dark interior.  I’m sure that was completely intentional in the architecture, but it’s effective. 

There are so many stunning works of art and statuary throughout the Basilica that it’s almost overwhelming.  Trying to take in any of them for more than a few seconds would mean that much less time to see, at least in passing, the rest of the offerings. 

There are also a number of small chapels along the sides of the structure, with worshipers taking time in their own thoughts.  I quietly take a seat in one of the surprisingly peaceful alcoves and spend a few moments in silent prayer.  It’s one of my favorite memories of our visit.

There are over 90 Popes interred in the complex, with most of them in the subterranean catacombs.  Pope John XXIII actually lies in state in the main cathedral, perfectly preserved and visible.  Nearby, a huge ornate gold disc is in the floor, allowing (former) access to and visibility of the catacombs below. 

We took the very informative tour, but unfortunately the Vatican Necropolis was not available then.  We did see a number of the Papal tombs, ranging from the ornate (Pius XI) to the rather humble (John Paul II).

And, of course, what’s a visit to the Vatican without a photo of the elaborately uniformed Swiss Guard?  🙂

Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel

While once again longing for more time, we need to move on to our next unforgettable experience.

The Vatican Museum is actually a complex of several museums and chapels, including the incredible Sistine Chapel.  There are usually lines for entrance, and today is no different.  However, Paul knew this and purchased us advance tickets for a specific timed entrance.  This allowed us to quickly enter the museum and not waste any precious time in Rome standing on a sidewalk!

Once inside, it’s hard not to be drawn down hallway after hallway and be lost in the (literally) centuries of history and beautiful artwork.  We have to be somewhat disciplined, and stay on the main path through the museum – seeing many amazing painted walls and ceilings, tapestries, and other classical Christian artwork.

The star of the show, at least for me, was actually getting to and standing in the amazing Sistine Chapel.  While there were a pretty decent number of people there, it felt like I was alone, because I was staring straight up at Michelangelo’s ceiling paintings.  Painted over the course of four years from 1508 to 1512, they represent nine scenes from the Book of Genesis.  The classic “Hand of God” painting is prominent and easy to find.  It’s amazing that I’ve seen it so close up in photos in the past, but it is actually some 70 feet above me.  You’ll probably notice a surprising (for me) lack of photos here … but there’s a reason.  There were two VERY serious Vatican museum guards calling out “Noooooo phooooo-tooooooooooos!!!” every few minutes to the milling throng of tourists.  I 100% understand both the need to respect the Chapel as well as keeping everyone from bumping into each other while they’re taking their own photos … so this is just a good preventative measure to “keep the peace”.

But, intrepid reader, as you know – I’ve never been kept from capturing a photo that I really really wanted … so, with my camera pointed straight up, but held near my waist, I was able to snap at least once decent phooooo-tooooooooooo of the ceiling and one of the amazing front wall.

Other Roman sights

Well!  How can we possibly top what we just experienced?  The simple answer is … “you can’t”, but you CAN see even more and more amazing and famous sights in “The Eternal City”. 

Fortunately, Paul had our route marked out to be as efficient as possible – and our first step are the famous Spanish Steps!  This is an extremely popular stop for photos, people-watching, and just general “hanging out” for both Italians and tourists-alike!

 Knowing that we’ll come back this way later and in a slightly cooler temperature – coupled with the fact that we’re FAMISHED – we decide to find an open-air cafe to recharge.  As we walk away from Piazza di Spagna, there are any number of packed options along the main walkway.  We, however, want a more quiet and perhaps a more “local” option.  Fortunately, I happened to look up an off-the-beaten-path walkway and there looked like the picture-perfect option.  We quickly settled on this as our option, and the proprietor – an absolutely CHARMING older Italian man – was thrilled when he realized we were Americans!  He was so happy that we chose his restaurant and wanted to make sure we had the best experience. 

This is where I wish I had actually taken pictures – as he was a character and his food was AMAZING!   When I asked him to bring me his favorite dish, he lit up and came back with “Paglia e Fieno”, which translates as “Straw and Hay” due to the yellow and green colors of the two fettuccine varieties. The lightly tossed pasta and cream sauce, with cheese, peas, and crispy prosciutto was the stuff of culinary dreams.  If I ever see it on a menu of an authentic Italian restaurant, I tend to order it and have fond memories of this meal.  This image is from ye olde Interwebbes … but is close.

Desert, if you can imagine, was even better.  He insisted on bringing out a LARGE TRAY of obviously homemade Tiramisu.  Looking directly at me with this GIANT spoon in his hand, he said (in perfectly Italian-accented broken English) “How mucha you want?”  It. Was. Amazing.

We enjoyed chatting with him over dessert, but we had other things to see!  So – fully recharged – we headed off to the Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi in the photo above).  While the Trevi Fountain isn’t huge – as water features go, it’s a “must see” for numerous reasons.

First – it’s been in several films that I’ve seen over the years, most notably Roman Holiday and La Dolce Vita.  Legend has it that if you throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder you’ll return to Rome one day.  There have been so many coins thrown into the fountain over the decades that the city collects them regularly and funds a supermarket for Rome’s needy!

Second – this is the historic site where three major Roman aqueducts (with associated roads) met, bringing much needed and constant fresh water into the city.  “Trevi” is actually a combination of the Italian “tre” (three) and “vie” (roads).  There was so much constant pressure from these three combined aqueducts that the original fountain needed no pumps or other assistance to produce the flowing water.

Third – it is another of Bernini’s amazing works throughout Rome.  While the original Roman “fountain of the three roads” was fully functional as a city water source, Pope Urban VIII decided to have Bernini redesign and renovate it into what we see today.

Now we have some more relaxed time, taking our time strolling down wonderful narrow streets, walking through well-known piazzas (including Piazza Navona, with another Bernini fountain – the Fountain of the Four Rivers).

The weather throughout our trip is amazing, and tonight is no different.  The fall sky starts to mute softly into pastel colors, and I’m able to get a great shot of St. Peter’s and the Tiber River.  And, as is fairly normal for vacations I take – this is not an uncommon pose for me.

 Making our way back across the Tiber, we’re near the famous Castel Sant’Angelo.  Unfortunately, we weren’t able to tour … but gotta leave SOMETHING for next time, right?  🙂

We trudge (slower now!) back past the now beautifully-lit Trevi Fountain  towards the Spanish Steps – and enjoy some gelato on those famous risers.  Don’t let the smiles fool you … we’re getting tired!

In order to meet the bus that will take us back to the hotel, we’re able to walk back past the Colosseum – which is also beautifully lit at night. 

Kathy and I admit defeat … we’re beat.  Paul and Geri win.  Take us back to the hotel please!

I think I was asleep before my head hit the pillow … tomorrow’s journal will be shorter, I promise!